Bengaluru to Ladakh Solo
In May, I embarked on my first solo long ride on my Royal Enfield Himalayan, covering an epic 7000 km journey from Bangalore to Ladakh and back to my hometown, Kharagpur. Riding solo across central India, I faced extreme temperatures ranging from 8°C to 44°C, and navigated a challenging but rewarding route: Bangalore - Hyderabad - Nagpur - Sagar - Jhansi - Agra - Delhi - Ludhiana - Srinagar - Leh - Manali - Delhi - Allahabad - Kolkata.
From the scorching plains of central India to the peaceful mountains of Ladakh, this journey tested my endurance and passion for adventure. It was an unforgettable experience riding solo through different terrains and weather conditions.
Leg One: The Ride from Bengaluru to Delhi (May 2017)
In the first week of May 2017, I embarked on a solo ride covering 2,080 km from Marathalli in Bengaluru to a hotel in CR Park, Delhi, where fellow riders were gathering for a Ladakh adventure. Google offers several route options between these two points, but I chose to ride the central India route, taking on the heat and the challenges of the summer season.
Day One: Bengaluru to Hyderabad (590 km)
I decided to tackle the summer heat by riding at night, setting off around 4 PM to beat the scorching temperatures. The journey started smoothly on superb highways, and I made good progress towards Gachibowli, Hyderabad, where a friend had invited me to stay at his PG.
As I approached Hyderabad, I encountered a severe Kalbaisakhi (Nor 'wester) storm. The gusts were ferocious, uprooting trees and sending tin sheets flying. I was drenched by the unexpected downpour, completely unprepared for the phenomenon. Despite the storm, I managed to reach Hyderabad safely, albeit soaked to the bone.
Day Two: Rest Day in Hyderabad
After the chaotic ride, I took a rest day in Hyderabad to dry out my gear and clothes. I spent the day indulging in some authentic Hyderabadi cuisine at Shadab's and had a minor check-up done for my Royal Enfield Himalayan, which was starting to show signs of wear. I knew the road ahead would be tougher, and I needed my bike in top shape.
Day Three: Hyderabad to Nagpur (496 km)
Feeling rested, I set off for Nagpur. Once again, I opted for a night ride to avoid the blistering daytime heat of the region. As I left Hyderabad, the terrain began to shift — the land became drier and more rugged, the road cutting through Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, and into Maharashtra.
Crossing into Maharashtra, I faced the real challenge of navigating jam-packed highways filled with heavy trucks under the unrelenting sun. Early in the morning, I arrived at a friend’s house in Nagpur, someone I had only interacted with online through riding groups but had never met in person.
Day Four: Meeting a Fellow Rider
Kaushik, the friend I stayed with in Nagpur, urged me to take another rest day. He also mentioned that one of his friends, Abhilash, was on a similar Ladakh journey and had already set off from Hyderabad. By evening, Abhilash arrived in Nagpur, and it felt like destiny had sent me a riding companion. To our surprise, both of us were headed to the same destination in Delhi on the same date to meet the same group of riders. From this point onward, it was clear that I wouldn’t be traveling solo anymore.
Day Five: Nagpur to Sagar (400 km)
On Day 5, Kaushik, Abhilash, and I decided to ride in the full heat of the day, as we continued deeper into central India. The plan was to cover around 400 km and reach Sagar in Madhya Pradesh. Temperatures soared to a brutal 44°C, and the hot loo winds forced us to take frequent breaks to cool down. Despite the scorching heat, Kaushik was eager to join us for about 100 km before turning back to Nagpur. His passion for riding was truly contagious.
The terrain was fascinating, offering glimpses of the Pench National Park and the ghats of central India. Although the heat drained us, the scenic beauty and camaraderie kept us motivated. We finally reached Sagar, where we spent the night at a friend's house of Abhilash.
Day Six: Sagar to Jhansi (200 km)
With a shorter 200 km ride ahead, we set out for Jhansi, knowing that the heat would continue to test us. Crossing from Madhya Pradesh into Uttar Pradesh through the rugged Bundelkhand region, we stopped frequently, not only to cool off but to admire the rugged beauty of the land. This ride was especially memorable because we had the opportunity to meet a veteran motorcycling enthusiast, Shailesh Tiwari. His strong, inspiring personality and passion for riding gave us the extra boost of confidence we needed to continue.
Day Seven: Jhansi to Agra (230 km)
On Day 7, we covered another 230 km to Agra. With Shailesh sir guiding us to the highway, we braved the heat once again. Upon reaching Agra, we were welcomed by the Bajaj Avenger Club (BAC) of Agra, who greeted us with open arms. Our accommodation, interestingly located in a place known as "Kutta Park," was just a stone's throw away from the Taj Mahal, offering us a breathtaking sunset view over the iconic monument.
Day Eight: Exploring Agra
We dedicated Day 8 to exploring Agra. We visited the majestic Taj Mahal, the Agra Fort, and indulged in the delicious local cuisine. The BAC members were kind enough to take us through the core streets of Agra, giving us a taste of the city's laid-back charm.
Day Nine: Agra to Delhi (200 km)
Finally, on Day 9, we made the last leg of our journey, a 200 km ride to Delhi. Completely exhausted from the heat and the ride, we arrived at our hotel in CR Park, only to be instantly rejuvenated by the sight of familiar faces—Nithin, Panda, Jinoop, and the rest of the Bangalore crew. With that, the first long leg of our Ladakh adventure came to an end, leaving us energized and ready for the next chapter.
Leg Two: Into the Mountains – Delhi to Ladakh
Day 1–2: The Journey Begins
Our Ladakh adventure kicked off early in the morning from the Qutub Minar parking lot in Delhi, with energy and excitement running high. Around 40 riders on Royal Enfields and other touring bikes hit the road together, aiming for Ladakh. The plan for Days 1 and 2 was to cover highways, with the first stop at Ludhiana and the second at Patnitop. It was on Day 2 that we finally entered the mountains of Kashmir, and I can still vividly recall the excitement of riding in the mountains for the first time.
However, those two days solidified my dislike for group rides. Riders were making wrong turns, not following the briefings properly, starting late—there was chaos everywhere. I realized then that this would be the first and last time I'd ride in such a large group.
Day 3: Patnitop to Srinagar
Day 3 was a more relaxed ride from Patnitop to Srinagar. We left Jammu behind and entered the expansive Kashmir Valley, where we spent the evening by Dal Lake. The day ended with a cozy stay in Srinagar, and I soaked in the serene beauty of the region.
Day 4: Srinagar to Kargil via Zoji La
This was the day when the mountains truly began to test us. Our destination was Kargil, a relatively short 200 km ride, but in the mountains, that’s quite a challenge. We had to cross Zoji La, one of the most dangerous passes, especially with its steep climb. Riding between 10-foot walls of snow and ice was an experience I’ll never forget. After a brief stop at the Zoji La top, we rode down to Drass for lunch and visited the Kargil War Memorial before ending the day at Kargil.
Day 5: Kargil to Leh
The ride from Kargil to Leh (210 km) was equally breathtaking, with multiple stops at mountain passes like Namika La and Fotu La, the highest pass on the Srinagar-Leh highway. We also visited the ancient Mulbekh Gompa, the moon-like landscapes of Lamayuru, the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus rivers, Magnetic Hill, and the historic Gurudwara Pathar Sahib. By evening, we finally reached Leh, the heart of Ladakh.
Day 6: Acclimatization in Leh
Day 6 was set aside for acclimatization, as Leh sits at 11,500 feet above sea level. While the Srinagar-Leh route gradually builds altitude over 400 km, it’s still essential to rest in Leh for a day to adjust to the low oxygen levels. We spent half the day resting, and in the afternoon, we explored the Leh market, stocking up on jerrycans and fuel for the journey ahead.
Day 7: Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La
On Day 7, we tackled the mighty Khardung La, which in 2017 was still recognized as the highest motorable pass in the world at 18,380 feet. Snow-covered roads greeted us as we became some of the first riders of the season. After crossing Khardung La, we descended into Nubra Valley, where we stayed in the picturesque village of Hunder, home to Ladakh’s famous sand dunes and Bactrian camels.
Day 8: Hunder to Pangong Lake
From Hunder, we visited Diskit Monastery before embarking on a challenging ride via the Shyok River bed towards Tangtse. Our journey continued to Spangmik, where we were greeted by the vast, blue waters of Pangong Lake. The remote beauty of this region is unmatched, and spending the evening by the lake was truly a magical experience.
Day 9: Pangong to Leh via Chang La
Riding back to Leh from Pangong required crossing the third-highest motorable road, Chang La Pass. The snow and water crossings made the ride challenging, but once we descended, the smooth roads and the sights of the Indus Valley on the Manali-Leh highway were a treat. By evening, we were back in Leh.
Day 10: Leh to Karzok (Tso Moriri)
On Day 10, we left the comfort of Leh and ventured into the remote plains of Changthang, en route to Karzok, the village by Tso Moriri Lake. We rode through Upshi, Mahe, Sumdo, and experienced heavy snowfall along the way. Reaching Karzok late, we were rewarded with the stunning beauty of Tso Moriri, a place I found even more serene than Pangong. We spent a chilly night in makeshift tents, though by 2024, this pristine spot has unfortunately become crowded with concrete structures.
Day 11: Karzok to Pang
Our next target was Sarchu, but first, we had to backtrack to Sumdo and cross the Polokang La Pass before reaching Tso Kar, another beautiful lake. After witnessing the Puga Valley's natural hot springs, we rejoined the Leh-Manali highway at Debring. However, upon reaching Pang, we learned that the road ahead was closed due to a washed-away bridge, and we had no choice but to stay put.
Day 12: Stranded in Pang
We spent Day 12 stranded in Pang, making the most of our situation with hot Maggi, boiled eggs, card games, and lots of camaraderie. Though the nights were cold, the experience bonded us even more.
Day 13: Pang to Manali
On Day 13, we made a direct dash from Pang to Manali, crossing three snow-laden passes: Lachung La, Nakee La, and the mighty Baralacha La. Crossing Rohtang Pass was particularly challenging as there was no tunnel back then, and the roads were far from smooth. We reached Manali late at night, completely exhausted but relieved to have made it through.
Days 14–19: Rest, Ride, and Return
After a well-deserved rest in Manali, the group parted ways. Some shipped their bikes back, but Abhilash and I chose to ride on. On Day 15, we reached Chandigarh, and on Day 16, we rode back to Delhi, where Abhilash and I finally parted ways. I spent Day 17 resting in a friend’s hostel in Delhi, but on Day 18, when my dad called to ask if I had shipped my bike, my answer was simple: I’m riding. That day, I covered over 700 km to Allahabad, and on Day 19, I rode solo back to Kharagpur, completing the journey.
